I interviewed Andy Appleton, head chef at Fifteen, some time ago for Food magazine – interesting guy, very keen to place the emphasis on Fifteen’s charitable status, which can often be lost in the Jamie factor and the general desirability of the place.

But one other, smaller thing also stuck in my mind from our chat: he was very excitable about Bre-Pen Farm lamb, which roams freely on the briny cliffs above Morgan Porth, near Newquay. He said that you could taste the sea.

I have had this logged in my mental food pilgrimage list for nine months so was pleased to pull it out from under the ‘north coast meat’ sub-head while holidaying in the area last week.

Having lived in Buenos Aires for a few years, I rarely excite about British meat (and I sometimes cry at the mention of lomo) but this is indeed something special – stop by the farm shop if you’re in the area (or look out for it on the menu at Fifteen).

It’s just a fridge in a very low-key tea room on a traditional farm – no fancy presentation but plenty of finds within.